Saturday, July 14, 2007

Spanish Lessons and a Homestay, Change of Plan, Fate, San Pedro de Atitlan, and the Dorms

Roni left way early in the morning, but I needed to get a lot done in Antigua Friday morning before I was headed off to Xela (a nickname based on the Mayan name for the large town of Quetzaltenango).

I needed to secure Spanish lessons, a homestay, laundry service, a shuttle trip, check-out of my hotel, and check with Roni's driver about what the hell happened (she got to the airport and california fine, but the driver we scheduled didn't show) in the span of a morning

I re-awoke at 7 am and went out on my way into the quiet streets of Antigua. I had met a man who said there was a good Spanish school near where we were talking, so I tried there first. To my dismay, I didn't remember how to get there, and didn't find the school he was talking about. Besides, it was too early in the morning to get business done, so...I went to the best breakfast place in town, that is, if I could remember how to get there. I was close. I thought it was on a calle instead of an avenida, but I found it nonetheless and sat down for Huevos Rancheros.

As I was finishing up my meal in solitude (which means I ate quickly, which was good cuz Ihad stuff to do) I saw a man I recognized out of the corner of my eye. He was the teacher who taught Gregg and he was at THE same restaraunt. I payed quickly and pardoned myself, and then made an introduction. His name is Antonio. He was happy to take me on as a student, he was made aware of my time constraint. He whisked me away, and we headed to Irma's home where I would spend the week. She was SOOOO nice and very warm. Let me tell you, this house is AMAZING. An incredible garden, and pretty big too. I think they do well for themselves. I hope to have pictures when I return to Antigua, but of course con permiso. So just like that, I set myself up with a week's worth of Spanish lessons, a homestay, and avoided having to pay a syndicated school more money. A win-win-win all the way around. And I know it's a great experience because Gregg already went through it. Sweet.

So I rushed off to the hotel to pack and check-out. I spoke with Erwin, the driver, and we cleared everything up. Then I headed to Irma's again to drop off my bag, and schedule a van ride to Xela. Much to my dismay, I couldn't get a direct van ride later than 12:30...until a travel agent had the brilliant idea to send me to Los Encuentros where I could get a ChickenBus (more on this hopefully later in the blog (later later)) to Xela.

Once I was on the van, I learned that the rest of the 13 passengers (yes, 13 on a packed van) were actually headed to Panajachel (the lake town). Hmmm. Everyone was really excited, and when I announced where I was headed, I heard a bit more about Xela. Well, nothing bad, but I started considering that it's colder, I wouldn't get there til dark, and it's the 2nd biggest city in Guatemala. Maybe not the best place for a solo traveler on a Friday night who hadn't been there before.

I mulled it over for awhile...and then had a change of heart. When we stopped in traffic, I informed the driver that I no longer wanted to go to Los Encuentros and that I wanted to join the group to Pana. He was a bit annoyed because the reason we were stuck in traffic was because we were on the main road that eventually hits both Los Encuentros and Pana. If we had needed to go to Pana exclusively, we would have taken the windey roads that make you want to puke, but at least you miss traffic. I felt bad, but I was consoled by a local from San Pedro of the lake who told me it's better to go this way because it's safer, especially considering the amount of people on our van.

As traffic moved, we passed through Los Encuentros...around 4 pm, and I had one more chance to re-change my mind, but I went forward. As we twisted toward Pana, our brakes began to smell and our exhaust pipe began dragging on bumps in the road. My local friend said that it was a damned good thing we went on the path that we did, because the brakes couldn't have handled many more twists and turns. So, Fate makes a grand appearance. Thanks!

On the van I met a nice pair, not a couple, and they were headed to San Pedro as well. From what I heard, San Pedro is the party town, not really my scene, but it could be kinda fun to be around more people now that I am a solo traveller. So I went with it. Getting a room was a bit tough on a Friday night, so I followed the pair, Rachel(of England but now residing (kinda) in Scotland) and Anis (like the plant, he's from Denmark). We ended up at a nice place that a shared room with 8 beds.


What? A dorm?! Yes, a dorm. And a nice one. I felt really weird about it at first, and then figured what the hey.

A dorm I stayed in! And it was nice. There was only one other person there, so in total, there were 4 people. It felt like camp. The three of us went out to dinner, talked about politics, Americans (of the US), renewable energy, and the human condition.

My impressions of San Pedro? Well...there are a ton of Hippies, Yippies, and Yuppies, but I went to school in Berkeley, so I don´t think much can shock me. And that´s the foriegner vibe. Locals exhibit some of the hippy vibe too, and I´ve been offered a few mind altering substances already, and I have politely declined. The local population is mixed with those that speak Mayan, spanish, and others. But if I had to give a report, it seems that are is a bit more going on in the real town at night than maybe some of the other villages around the lake. I think San Pedro has a more vibrant local and tourist scene, whether or not that´s due to the tourists, I don´t know. Roni just said it to me in an email, I think my time in San Pedro will allow me to experience a lake town a bit more than our stay in La Casa Del Mundo allowed for. So that´s nice. I have NO regrets at the momet for being here vs. Xela. I get to look out on the lake out of my window, observe

This morning we went kayaking on the lake. They left to go back to Antigua and I had myself a great lunch of garlicy mushrooms, a Spanish delicacy I think.

Right before lunch, I needed to buy a shirt, all of mine are dirty, including the one that was on my back. I thought this would be an easy operation, but it turned out a bit more time consuming. I thought I´d buy a Gallo shirt (Gallo is the big beer here, and I´m a big beer guy), but I swear to you I couldn´t find one. Seriously. I searched the tourist town, the upper part of the town, the market, etc, and nada. I headed back to the dorm dejected, and then came across a Rasta place that had a Ropas (clothes) sign. I went in and checked out the wears and found a nice tie-dye that was Hecho in Guatemala for 30 quetz (a little less then 4 bucks). Awesome! Now I´ll fit in nicely here...

Today there is a little shin-dig near my place celebrating the 25th anniversary of a local radio station. I am so there. I'll have pics of that tomorrow, I swear.

Ok, enough from me.

4 comments:

trixieb said...

Adan, I am glad you will be able to take Spanish lessons. If someone wanted to learn Mayan is that available as well?

I am glad that you arrived safely and it sounds like you made a good decision.

I like your shirt. Does the symbol mean any thing?

I helped out at the Fairmount Youth Garden. Students sell organic produce that they have grown in the school youth garden, at a market.

They get to create the signs in English and Spanish with prices for the display table, collect the money and some of the students are surveying people after they purchase vegetables. This is a great experience for them.
I didn't do much, helped set up the marina sauce tasting, helped with some words on the survey and mostly watched what was going on.

One of my AIC students is interested in doing a video of these students working in the market. The vendors are in grades 5-7 I believe and they are redominately bilinqual. They get paid to do this for the summer and get to keep some of the profits/

Many local farmer's markets are in full swing in the Denver Metro area. There are always musicians playing. I thought of you Adam.

Love, Momma

Adam said...

Sounds very cool Mom! I am interested in providing healthy food to the public. Roni is very in to Food Justice.

As for Mayan schools? Boy, I don´t know...my gut says no as I´m sure there is FAR more funding and effort to teach Mayan dialect speakers how to speak Spanish.

It´d be interesting if Mayan communities and other organizations made strong efforts to retain Mayan language outside of the langauges spoken in small villages.

Unknown said...

No es possible, mi hijo. Hablar ingles para el economia. En la paiz(Country??), mundo tres, muchos generacions dependen con otro paiz para dinero y los politicos muy corrupto.

Requerde usted la historia de America central, Cuba, Haiti, Dominica, Africa...y mas.

Mexcio, es mejor paiz que es muy corrupto pero los gente en los areas de un poco ciudads son muy bueno.....espcialmente los gente de Mayan y Azteca lineaga.

Pappa

trixieb said...

Adam,
Imagine what Senora Josephina Goldring what think of your trip. I think that she would be very proud.
I think food justice is so important as it goes hand in hand with environmental, social and economic justice.

One of my friends in Denver works with women in an organization called Friendship Bridge in Guatemala, but I don't know where. I believe it is a microcredit organization. Her name is Connie Newton.

Regarding Mayan language, I think we are richer if we have diversity as opposed to monocultures---and that includes food/culture too.

I love you
MOMMA